Kashmir

Azad Jammu & Kashmir is the part of Kashmir administered by Pakistan. It is a place of steep, forested valleys cut by the Jhelum and Neelum rivers, with small towns strung along the roads and terraced fields on the slopes above. Islamabad is only a few hours away, which is why Pakistani families come here for weekends, and why it is much quieter for foreign visitors.

Muzaffarabad, the capital, lies where the Neelum meets the Jhelum. It was badly hit by the earthquake of October 2005 and has since been rebuilt, and the old Red Fort stands beside the river. From there the Neelum Valley road follows the water for around 200 kilometres, passing Keran, Sharda and Kel. From Kel a cable car crosses the river to Arang Kel, a village of wooden houses on a meadow, and a longer hike leads up to Ratti Gali Lake.

Leepa Valley, in the Jhelum Valley district, has terraced fields and wooden houses. Around Rawalakot, in Poonch, are the pine forests of Banjosa and Tolipir, which are a popular summer escape.

The upper Neelum road runs close to the Line of Control, so access can be regulated and can change at short notice. We check requirements before every trip. The valley is at its best from May to October; the lake at Ratti Gali is usually free of ice only from July to September.