Sindh

Sindh's story starts with the Indus. Mohenjo-daro, built around 2500 BCE, had straight streets, brick houses with drains, and a large public bath, and it was abandoned long before written history began. Much later, the Sama, Arghun and Tarkhan dynasties left their tombs on the hills of Makli near Thatta, one of the largest necropolises in the world. The province also has the Jain temples of Nagarparkar and the fort of Ranikot, with walls that run for more than 25 kilometres.

Sindh has always been a land of saints and poets. Shrines such as Sehwan Sharif, Bhit Shah and Sachal Sarmast draw crowds for their annual urs, with drums, dhamal dancing and singing that can go through the night. These are places of worship, so we go with a local guide, dress modestly and ask before taking photographs.

Karachi is huge, hot, and generous. Its food, from biryani to nihari, is a reason to come by itself. The city also has colonial-era buildings, the Mohatta Palace and a long working harbour. West of the city, the Makran Coastal Highway starts, and east of it the creeks of the Indus delta stretch towards India.

November to February is cool enough for the archaeological sites and the desert. Summers are extremely hot. After the monsoon, in August and September, the Thar turns green for a few weeks and Nagarparkar is at its best.