The Kalash live in the side valleys of Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir, near Chitral, and follow a religion and a calendar distinct from their neighbours.
About 4,000 Kalash people live in the three valleys. Women wear black dresses with colourful beadwork, and the community follows its own faith, with its own festivals and seasonal rituals. Visiting respectfully matters: ask before taking photographs, do not enter a place that is closed to outsiders, and go with a guide who is known in the valley.
The three valleys
Bumburet is the largest and the easiest to reach, with the main festival ground. Rumbur is quieter and greener, a good choice for walking, with a path up to the old settlement of Balanguru. Birir is the most traditional of the three, and its villages sit at the top of the valley beside the river.
When to come
The Chilam Joshi festival in mid-May is the best-known, with dancing, singing and offerings of milk, and many visitors plan the whole trip around it. The winter festival of Chaumos in December is more private and not always open to outsiders, so ask your guide in advance. Between festivals, spring and autumn are the best times to walk between the villages.
Highlights
- The Chilam Joshi spring festival in mid-May
- Chaumos in December
- Wooden houses and carved doors
- Village walks in Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir
